Winterlicious review:Lucien

Lucien

36 Wellington St. E

As you may be able to tell from this photo, the restaurant was none too busy on a Tuesday night, but by the way we were treated, you'd never be able to tell. It felt like it was one of those classic Winterlicious experiences, where restos that are usually raved about put out sub par food and staff makes you feel like they're just rushing you through. And given the quality of some other $35 menus I dined on, this Lucien food simply wasn't worth it.

I was told to be there at 6 p.m. sharp, when I arrived it was just me, as the rest of my large party was late. Thus, we were already a bit in the wrong. But as soon as another companion arrived, we were rushed and interrupted by the server several times who seemed exceedingly anxious to get us to order and get out.  The interior is pretty cool, I will give it that --lots of old wood and a sort of Bohemian French flair. When the rest of my party arrived, we ordered. I went with the matzoh ball soup, which is nothing like the authentic Bubbi types my Jewish friends have served me.

Granted, they had a pretty cool gimmick going here with the two super moist matzoh balls and a few slivers of pulled chicken resting in the bottom of the bowl and the server pouring a rich broth from a teapot on top. Although it was original, it was unsatisfying. My friends who ordered the beet salad with wild rice found it to be entirely misnamed as the salad was largely rice with a few slivers of roasted beet. And oh yeah, they charge for bread here.

My main included a healthy portion (actually three portions) of tender and moist chicken. While mine was well cooked, some of my friends received theirs still red close to the bones. It was served with a combination of pinto beans and sauerkraut, mustard and apparently stewed cranberries although there was nary a berry to be found. Decent, but nothing to write home about. 

The only dessert that appealed to me, of the choices -- one was a foie gras milkshake -- unfortunately was this deep-fried custard topped oddly with a sprinkle of oats and accompanied by a sour-ish strawberry whipped sour cream. It was terrible, the custard was not sweet in the least and all I could taste was the deep-fried-ness, of the sticks that may as well have been fish sticks. Eugh.

In its defence, Lucien has been billed as one of the best restaurants in the city on many critics lists, it might take a while before I give it another shot.